I-PARIS. Naphezu kokwesaba ukwehla komnotho, isimo sengqondo embukisweni wamuva nje we-Silmo wamehlo sasinethemba.
Umongameli weSilmo u-Amelie Morel uthe inani lababonisi kanye nababekhona - izivakashi ezingu-27,000 - lilingana nenguqulo yangaphambi kobhubhane. Njengoba u-50% wethrafikhi evela ngaphandle kweFrance, inani elikhulu lezivakashi ezivela eMelika naseMpumalanga Ephakathi, ezazingekho embukisweni ngaphambi kokuqala kobhubhane, zibuyile ngobuningi.
“Kwakuyisimangaliso sangempela,” kusho uMorel. “Lokhu kuwubufakazi bokuthi imboni yethu isadinga imibukiso futhi yisikhathi esibalulekile embonini iyonke.”
“Sijabule kakhulu ukubuyela eSilmo nabantu abaningi kangaka,” kusho u-Antonio Jove, inhloko ye-Marcolin EMEA. “Uhlelo lwangonyaka odlule belusathintwe yimikhawulo ye-COVID-19 futhi kuhle ukubona abantu manje… ekugcineni sebebuyela ‘emikhubeni’ yabo… Imihlangano ebukhoma ibaluleke kakhulu embonini yethu.”
Imboni ye-optical yenze kahle engxenyeni yokuqala yonyaka, lapho ababukisi behlisa khona ukwesaba kokwehla komnotho. UChristelle Barranger, uMongameli we-EssilorLuxottica EMEA Wholesale, uthe: “Ngicabanga ukuthi le ndaba izoba yisizinda sengxoxo, kodwa mhlawumbe iSilmo akuyona indawo yokuxoxisana ngoba yayijabulisa kakhulu ngaleso sikhathi.” kubo Izinqumo zenziwa ngokucophelela, [kodwa] kwakukhona nomuzwa wokuzethemba wokuthi sizodlula.”
UMoritz Krüger, umsunguli kanye ne-CEO yomkhiqizi wekhwalithi ephezulu waseJalimane iMykita, uthe: “Abameleli bethu bezentengiso babe nehlobo elihle futhi sezwa ukuthi amakhasimende emhlabeni wonke anelisekile kakhulu ngokuthengisa. Isimo siyanelisa kakhulu, ngakho-ke singaphinde sithengise.”
“IYurophu kulo nyaka ibifana neNyakatho Melika ngonyaka odlule, ngakho kube nokubuyela emuva okubaluleke kakhulu,” kusho u-Angelo Trocchia, isikhulu esiphezulu seqembu leSafilo, owabuya ngemuva kokushiya umbukiso ngonyaka odlule. “EYurophu, senza kahle, kodwa eNyakatho Melika konke kujwayelekile, ngoba ngonyaka odlule babe nokukhula okukhulu. Wonke umhlaba ulungile.”
Waqhubeka wathi: “Uma ngibheka phambili, ngizoqaphela kakhulu … Ukwehla kwamandla emali kuyaqala ukwenzeka, futhi ngicabanga ukuthi ekupheleni konyaka sizobona ukuthi abathengi baqala kanjani ukusabela kukho.”
Ababukeli bathi izinkampani zezibuko zamehlo zinamandla kakhulu ezigabeni zezinga eliphezulu kanye nezinga lokuqala. “Izinto zokunethezeka ziyachuma ngokusobala, futhi njengoba ukubuyiselwa kwemali [yezokwelapha] kuncipha, iminikelo yezinga lokuqala nayo ikhula ngokushesha isikhashana,” kusho uBarranger.
Okwamanje, ukungezwani kwe-supply chain kusalokhu futhi kulindeleke ukuthi kuthinte amanani esikhathini esizayo. “Ukwehla kwamandla emali kuyanda kwezinye izingxenye zomhlaba, ngakho-ke sihlola ukuthi lo mthelela uzoba yini nokuthi singawunciphisa kanjani,” kusho uBarranger. “Senza konke okusemandleni ethu ukwamukela ukwehla kwamandla emali, futhi siqaphile kakhulu ukuthi singawathinta kanjani amanani.”
“Ngiyazi ukuthi iningi labancintisana nabo linyuse amanani alo,” kusho uKrueger. “Ngeke sinyuse amanani, okungenani hhayi kulo nyaka. Kuzodingeka sibone konke okuzothuthuka lapho.”
Ukwethulwa kobuchwepheshe obuqala kusukela phansi kuya phezulu kanye nokuqala kusukela phansi kwakuyisihloko esiyinhloko sombukiso wezinsuku ezine, owaphela ngoSepthemba 26, futhi waba yisihloko sendawo entsha yedolobhana ledijithali. “Sifuna ukuba yimoto yokusiza imboni yezibuko ukuthi yenze uguquko lwayo lwedijithali,” kusho uSebastian Brusse, i-CEO kanye nomqondisi wokudala eJaw Studio Lyon, osiza ekwakheni isifunda esisha.
I-EssilorLuxottica – okuyiyona kuphela inkampani enkulu yezibuko zamehlo esebenzisa izibuko ezihlakaniphile lapho ibambisene ne-Meta ku-Ray-Ban Stories – iveze ubuchwepheshe bayo bamuva, umugqa wezibuko zamehlo ezenzelwe ngqo imidlalo ngaphansi kwelayisensi evela ku-Oakley. Amafreyimu aklanyelwe ukugqokwa nama-headphone futhi anezingalo eziguquguqukayo, kuyilapho amalensi esetshenziselwa ukuthuthukisa ukungafani kwesikrini, kufaka phakathi izikrini ze-OLED, nokuhlunga ukukhanya okuluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka.
“Uma ucabanga ngezibuko ezihlakaniphile, abantu bathi ziyisango eliya ekusaseni eliyingqophamlando, kodwa seziqalile ukusetshenziswa ezingilazini ezifana nemidlalo yevidiyo,” kusho uBarranger. “Lokho kungenza ngibe nesithakazelo ngezibuko ezihlakaniphile: kusasa zizoxhunyaniswa nomhlaba wedijithali.”
Inkampani yaseSweden i-Skugga ikhombisa lokho ethi ishintsha ubuchwepheshe bezingilazi ezihlakaniphile njengoba amamojula ayo angahlanganiswa nanoma yiluphi uhlobo lwamafreyimu. U-Alf Ericsson, iSikhulu Somkhiqizo Esiyinhloko, uchaze ukuthi umgomo wethu “awukwakha ubuchwepheshe obufanelana nedivayisi abantu abangayisebenzisi.” “Eminyakeni emibili edlule, sibone ushintsho olukhulu ekuzimiseleni ukwamukela [abakhiqizi bezingilazi zamehlo abaqaphela lokho] ngaphandle kwalokho izinkampani ezinkulu zobuchwepheshe zizobusa imboni yezingilazi zamehlo ngendlela ezazibusa ngayo imboni yamawashi.”
Ngemva kweminyaka eyisikhombisa yokuthuthukiswa, ubuchwepheshe obulungele ukukhiqizwa buyakwazi ukulinganisa ukunyakaza kanye nezici zemvelo, kanye nezinzuzo eziningi ezingaba khona, kusukela ekulinganiseni ukuchayeka komsebenzisi ekungcoleni nasekukhanyeni kuya ekuhlinzekeni ngolwazi lokuma kanye nezemidlalo, kanye ne-ecosystem evulekile yabathuthukisi bohlelo lokusebenza. Le nkampani ithole umklomelo ohlonishwayo we-Silmo d'Or esigabeni se-Technology Innovation/Connected Products.
Ababukeli bakhomba ukuthi imboni ye-optical iye yephuza ukujoyina i-tech, ikakhulukazi ngoba ingxenye enkulu yemboni isaphethwe ochwepheshe be-optical abazimele. “I-Optical ivame ukuba amabhizinisi omndeni futhi ingaba nokumelana nobuchwepheshe,” kusho uCody Cho, iphini likamongameli wezokumaketha komhlaba wonke eDita. “Ngokuphathelene nobuchwepheshe, izibuko zisemuva ngeminyaka emithathu kuya kwemine.”
UCho, ongowokuzalwa eSilicon Valley, ubelokhu enza idatha ibe yingxenye yomhlaba kaDita iminyaka eminingi. “Sisebenzisa ubuchwepheshe obuningi ukwenza izibikezelo,” kusho yena.
Isibonelo, ezinye izinsimbi ezinkulu zezibuko zamehlo zavezwa embukisweni okhethekile wezivakashi ukuze zibonise amakhono azo njengamathuluzi okwenza kube lula uku-oda nokuthuthukisa ukuphathwa kwempahla, okwakuyisihloko sesethulo sikaMqondisi weMicrosoft Wokumaketha Komkhiqizo u-Otman Chiheb.
Eminyakeni embalwa kamuva, imiklamo yemfashini engenama-bezel amakhulu njenge-Dita's Embra — imodeli yokuqala engenama-bezel eyenzelwe abesifazane kuphela eminyakeni engama-20 — iyamangaza, ngokusho komklami uLouis Lee, kodwa eminyakeni embalwa ngemva kokubusa kwamamodeli anezintambo ngo-2010, lo mkhiqizo washintsha waya kumafreyimu e-acetate.
Lo mkhiqizo usebenzisa isidingo sezibuko zawo zokunethezeka futhi wandisa izitolo zawo ezingaxhunyiwe ku-inthanethi emigwaqweni yokuthenga esezingeni eliphezulu, kusho uCho, njengoba kuvulwe muva nje eRodeo Drive eBeverly Hills naseBrompton Road eLondon. UCho uthe inkampani ihlose ukuvula ezinye izitolo eziyisikhombisa noma eziyisishiyagalombili eminyakeni embalwa ezayo, ihlose amadolobha afana neMiami, iLas Vegas, iMykonos, iShanghai, iDubai kanye neSingapore.
Ukucabanga kabusha ngemikhiqizo yendabuko kuyisici esibalulekile semikhiqizo eminingi yaseMarcolin efana nePucci neZegna eklanywe ngamalogo ayo amasha.
Ngokuvamile, abenzi bezibuko babone isidingo esikhulu samafreyimu amakhulu, anomumo oyisikwele, imininingwane ekhangayo, kanye nokushintsha kusuka kumnyama kuya konsundu, okuye kwanyamalala eminyakeni yamuva.
Ushintsho ekubekweni kwabanye ochwepheshe lusobala. IShafiro, eye yahlupheka eminyakeni yamuva ngenxa yokulahlekelwa amalayisense amaningana anenzuzo afaka phakathi iDior, iGucci kanye neFendi, ihlela kabusha iphothifoliyo yayo yemikhiqizo. Leli qembu lifuna ukwandisa ukuba khona kwalo endaweni yezingubo zabesifazane, isibonelo, neCarolina Herrera, abasayine nayo ngonyaka odlule, kanye nezinye izinhlobo zokuphila ezifana neBoss kanye ne-Isabel Marant, kanye nangemikhiqizo yalo iPolaroid kanye neCarrera. . "Sihlanganisa ngempela ububanzi obukhulu njengamanje," kusho uTrocchia, "Okwamanje senza kahle, amalayisense amasha ahamba kahle, amalayisense amadala ahamba kahle, imikhiqizo yethu ihamba kahle…."
Ezinye izinkampani ezinkulu zenze intuthuko ekuzinzeni. I-Safilo ibonise ozimele namalensi enziwe ngezinto ezisetshenziswe kabusha ngamakhemikhali e-Eastman Renew, kuyilapho i-Mykita ishintshele ezintweni ezikuzo zonke ozimele bayo be-acetate futhi ithi iyona yokuqala ukwenza kanjalo kuwo wonke umugqa wayo. I-Safilo ihlanganisa cishe ingxenye yephothifoliyo yayo, ayizange inyuse amanani.
Indodakazi kaJamie Foxx ithi “akazange aphume esibhedlela amasonto amaningi” futhi “udlale i-pickleball izolo.”
Abathengi abanolwazi olukhulu balahla ukhilimu wabo wobuso ongu-$90 bakhetha lo mshini wokugcoba ovikela imibimbi ongu-$6 ovela kumkhiqizo ovunyelwe yiJane Fonda.
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Isikhathi sokuthunyelwe: Meyi-18-2023