PARIS. Naphezu kokwesaba ukuwohloka komnotho, isimo sengqondo embukisweni wakamuva wezingubo zamehlo we-Silmo besinethemba.
Umongameli weSilmo u-Amelie Morel uthe isibalo sababonisi nababekhona - izivakashi ezingama-27,000 - sihambisana nenguqulo yangaphambi kobhubhane. Njengoba u-50% wethrafikhi evela ngaphandle kweFrance, inqwaba yezivakashi ezivela eMelika naseMiddle East, ebezingekho embukisweni ngaphambi kokuqala kwalolu bhubhane, zibuye ngobuningi.
“Kwakumangalisa ngempela,” kusho uMorel. “Lokhu kuwubufakazi bokuthi imboni yethu isadinga imibukiso futhi kuyisikhathi esibalulekile embonini yonkana.”
"Sijabule kakhulu ngokubuyela eSilmo nabantu abaningi," kusho u-Antonio Jove, inhloko yeMarcolin EMEA. "Ushicilelo lwangonyaka odlule belusathintekile yimikhawulo ye-COVID-19 futhi kuyajabulisa ukubona abantu manje… ekugcineni bebuyela 'emikhubeni yabo'… Imihlangano ebukhoma ibaluleke kakhulu embonini yethu."
Imboni ye-optical yenze kahle engxenyeni yokuqala yonyaka, nabakhangisi behlisa ukwesaba kokwehla komnotho. UChristelle Barranger, uMongameli we-EssilorLuxottica EMEA Wholesale, uthe: “Ngicabanga ukuthi lolu daba luzoba seqhulwini engxoxweni, kodwa mhlawumbe uSilmo akasona isithangami sezingxoxo ngoba sasijabulisa kakhulu ngaleso sikhathi.” kubo Izinqumo zenziwa ngokuqapha okukhulu, [kodwa] kwakukhona nomuzwa wokuqiniseka ukuthi sizodlula.”
UMoritz Krüger, umsunguli kanye ne-CEO yomkhiqizi wekhwalithi ephezulu waseJalimane iMykita, uthe: “Abamele ukuthengisa babe nehlobo elihle futhi sezwa ukuthi amakhasimende emhlabeni wonke aneliseke kakhulu ngokuthengisa. Isimo siyagculisa kakhulu, ngakho singaphinda sidayise.”
"I-Europe kulo nyaka iyafana neNyakatho Melika ngonyaka odlule, ngakho-ke kube nokuphindaphinda okubaluleke kakhulu," kusho u-Angelo Trocchia, isikhulu esiphezulu seqembu leSafilo, owabuya ngemuva kokushiya umbukiso ngonyaka odlule. “E-Europe senza kahle kodwa eNyakatho Melika yonke into isijwayelekile ngoba ngonyaka odlule banyuke kakhulu. Umhlaba wonke ulungile.”
Uqhube wathi: “Uma ngibheka phambili, ngizocophelela kakhulu … i-inflation isiqala ukubonakala, futhi ngicabanga ukuthi ekupheleni konyaka sizobona ukuthi abathengi baqala ukusabela kanjani kukho.”
Izingqapheli zithi izinkampani zezingubo zamehlo zinamandla amakhulu emikhakheni esezingeni eliphezulu nesezingeni eliphezulu. "Ukunethezeka kuyakhula ngokusobala, futhi njengoba ukubuyisela [kwezokwelapha] kuncipha, iminikelo yezinga lokungena nayo ikhula ngokushesha okwesikhashana," kusho uBarranger.
Khonamanjalo, ukungezwani kwe-supply chain kusalokhu futhi kulindeleke ukuthi kuthinte amanani ukuya phambili. “Ukwehla kwamandla emali kuyenyuka kwezinye izingxenye zomhlaba, ngakho sibheka ukuthi lo mthelela uzoba yini nokuthi ungawunciphisa kanjani,” kusho uBarranger. “Senza konke esingakwenza ukuze sibambe ukwehla kwamandla emali, futhi siqapha kakhulu ngokuthi singawathinta kanjani amanani entengo.” .
“Ngiyazi ukuthi iningi labaqhudelana nabo liwanyusile amanani,” kusho uKrueger. “Ngeke sinyuse amanani, okungenani hhayi kulo nyaka. Kuzofanele sibone konke okuzothuthuka lapho.”
Ukwethulwa kobuchwepheshe be-bottom-up kanye ne-bottom-up kwakuyindikimba eyinhloko yombukiso wezinsuku ezine, owaphela ngo-Septhemba 26, futhi waba yindikimba yendawo entsha ye-digital village. "Sifuna ukuba imoto yokusiza imboni yezingubo zamehlo ukuthi yenze eyayo inguquko yedijithali," kusho uSebastian Brusse, oyi-CEO kanye nomqondisi wezobuciko e-Jaw Studio Lyon, esiza ekulolongeni isifunda esisha.
I-EssilorLuxottica - okuwukuphela kwenkampani enkulu yezingubo zamehlo ukusebenzisa izibuko ezihlakaniphile uma ibambisana ne-Meta ku-Ray-Ban Stories - yethule uguquko lwayo lwakamuva, umugqa wezingubo zamehlo oklanyelwe ngokukhethekile ukudlala ngaphansi kwelayisensi yakwa-Oakley. Amafreyimu adizayinelwe ukuthi agqokwe nama-headphone futhi abe nezingalo eziguqukayo, kuyilapho amalensi esetshenziselwa ukuthuthukisa ukugqama kwesikrini, okuhlanganisa nezibonisi ze-OLED, nokuhlunga ukukhanya okuluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka.
"Uma ucabanga ngezibuko ezihlakaniphile, abantu bathi ingosi ye-metaverse yesikhathi esizayo, kodwa seziqala ukusetshenziswa ezingilazini ezifana nemidlalo yevidiyo," kusho uBarranger. "Lokho kungenza ngibe nothando lwezibuko ezihlakaniphile: kusasa zizoxhunywa emhlabeni wedijithali."
Inkampani yaseSweden i-Skugga ikhombisa lokho ethi ishintsha ubuchwepheshe bezibuko ezihlakaniphile njengoba amamojula ayo engakwazi ukuhlanganiswa kunoma yiluphi uhlobo lwamafreyimu. U-Alf Ericsson, oyiChief Product Officer, wachaza ukuthi inhloso yethu “akukona ukwakha ubuchwepheshe obungena ocingweni abantu abangeke balusebenzise.” “Eminyakeni emibili edlule, sibone ushintsho olukhulu ekuzimiseleni ukwamukela [abakhiqizi bezibuko zamehlo abaqaphela lokho] ngaphandle kwalokho izinkampani ezinkulu zobuchwepheshe bezizobusa imboni yezingubo zamehlo ngendlela ebezibusa ngayo imboni yamawashi.”
Ngemva kweminyaka eyisikhombisa yokuthuthuka, ubuchwepheshe obulungele ukukhiqiza buyakwazi ukulinganisa ukunyakaza kanye nezici zemvelo, ngebanga lezinzuzo ezingaba khona ezansi nomfula, kusukela ekulinganiseni ukuchayeka komsebenzisi ekungcoleni nasekukhanyeni kuye ekunikezeni ukuma kanye nolwazi lwezemidlalo. kanye ne-ecosystem evulekile yonjiniyela bohlelo lokusebenza. Le nkampani ithole umklomelo ohlonishwayo we-Silmo d'Or esigabeni seTekhnoloji Innovation/Connected Products.
Izingqapheli ziveza ukuthi imboni ye-optical iye yaphuza ukujoyina i-tech tide, ikakhulukazi ngoba ingxenye enkulu yemboni isaphethwe odokotela bamehlo abazimele. "Ama-Optics imvamisa angamabhizinisi omndeni futhi angamelana nobuchwepheshe," kusho uCody Cho, iphini likamongameli wezokukhangisa emhlabeni wonke kwaDita. "Ngokwezobuchwepheshe, izibuko zingemuva ngeminyaka emithathu kuya kwemine."
Ongowokuzalwa eSilicon Valley, u-Cho ubelokhu enza idatha ibe yingxenye yomhlaba we-Dita iminyaka. "Sisebenzisa ubuchwepheshe obuningi ukwenza izibikezelo," esho.
Isibonelo, ezinye izingubo ezisindayo zamehlo zifakwe embukisweni okhethekile wezivakashi ukuze zibonise amakhono azo njengamathuluzi okwenza lula uku-oda nokuthuthukisa ukuphathwa kwempahla, obekuyisihloko esethulweni sikaMqondisi we-Microsoft Wokumaketha Komkhiqizo u-Otman Chiheb.
Eminyakeni embalwa kamuva, amadizayini emfashini amakhulu angenasici afana ne-Dita's Embra - imodeli yokuqala engenasici yabesifazane kuphela eminyakeni engama-20 - ayamangaza, ngokusho komklami uLouis Lee, kodwa eminyakeni embalwa ngemuva kokubusa kwamamodeli anezintambo ngo-2010, uhlobo lwabuye lwashintsha. ukuze acetate. amafreyimu.
Lo mkhiqizo uzuza kakhulu ngokufunwa kwezingubo zawo zamehlo zikanokusho futhi wandisa izitolo zawo ezingaxhunyiwe ku-inthanethi emigwaqweni yezitolo esezingeni eliphezulu, kusho u-Cho, ngokuvulwa kwakamuva kuRodeo Drive eBeverly Hills nakuBrompton Road eLondon. UCho uthe inkampani ihlose ukuvula ezinye izitolo eziyisikhombisa noma eziyisishiyagalombili eminyakeni embalwa ezayo, ibheke amadolobha afana neMiami, Las Vegas, Mykonos, Shanghai, Dubai kanye neSingapore.
Ukucabanga kabusha imikhiqizo yendabuko kuwuphawu lwemikhiqizo eminingi ye-Marcolin efana ne-Pucci ne-Zegna eklanywe ngamalogo abo amasha.
Ngokuvamile, abenzi bezingubo zamehlo babone isidingo esinamandla samafreyimu ayisikwele, ayisikwele, imininingwane ekhanga amehlo, kanye noshintsho olusuka kokumnyama luye kwabansundu, oluye lwafiphala ngemuva eminyakeni yakamuva.
Ushintsho ekubekweni kwabanye ongoti kusobala. I-Shafiro, ehlukumezeke eminyakeni yamuva nje ngenxa yokulahlekelwa amalayisensi amaningana anenzuzo enkulu kuhlanganise ne-Dior, i-Gucci ne-Fendi, ihlela kabusha iphothifoliyo yomkhiqizo wayo. Iqembu libheke ukukhulisa ubukhona balo endaweni yezingubo zabesifazane, ngokwesibonelo, uCarolina Herrera, elisayine naye ngonyaka owedlule, kanye nezinye izinhlobo zendlela yokuphila efana noBoss no-Isabel Marant, kanye nemikhiqizo yabo iPolaroid neCarrera. . . "Sikhuluma nge-spectrum ebanzi kakhulu njengamanje," kusho uTrocchia, "Okwamanje senza kahle, amalayisense amasha ahamba kahle, amalayisensi amafa ahamba kahle, imikhiqizo yethu ihamba kahle ...."
Ezinye izinkampani ezinkulu zenze inqubekelaphambili ekusimameni. I-Safilo ibonise ozimele namalensi enziwe ngezinto ezigaywe kabusha ngamakhemikhali zase-Eastman Renew, kuyilapho i-Mykita ishintshela kokokusebenza kuwo wonke amafreyimu ayo e-acetate futhi ithi ingeyokuqala ukwenza kanjalo kuwo wonke ulayini wayo. akhawunti cishe ingxenye yephothifoliyo yabo, ayizange inyuse amanani.
Indodakazi ka-Jamie Foxx ithi "amasonto ayizange iphume esibhedlela" futhi "idlale i-pickleball izolo."
Abathengi abasezingeni eliphezulu balahla okhilimu babo bobuso ongu-$90 ukuze bazuze lesi sikhuthazi esinqanda imibimbi esingu-$6 esivela kumkhiqizo ogunyazwe u-Jane Fonda.
I-WWD kanye ne-Women's Wear Daily ziyingxenye ye-Penske Media Corporation. © 2023 Fairchild Publishing LLC. Wonke Amalungelo Agodliwe.
Isikhathi sokuthumela: May-18-2023